This site is not real fancy or full of bells and whistles. In fact it's designed to give whomever comes across it, usually from me giving you the address or a card you received, some of the basic information everyone asks me anyway. Although I'm licensed this is only part of my business. Having done this for over 20 years now, I've come to enjoy rebuilding these units as it has become almost therapeutic. Having ventured into renewable energies, I find the hydraulic circuitry and the mechanical applications much more interesting to me now. Thus I continue to build these units with a renewed interest. 
SCROLL DOWN THE PAGE FOR VIDEOSExpectations on rebuilding or modifying your Transmission
I also have designed new components for some of them and enjoy making or developing new modi-
frications that can enhance the performance, efficiency and strength of these common means of transferring mechanical energy to the wheels. I will not take on a large work load and will not do rush jobs or need it now jobs. Tranco and United are who I would send you to for that. HOWEVER, if you want a very well built and thought out transmission, and are willing to take the time to install it properly, you will have a unit that will last longer and typically meet your needs. So keep that in mind before you decide to have me work for you. My turn around time is usually only a couple to three days depending on who's ahead of you or what parts are needed. I do take a parts deposit up front and have for all the years I've been doing this. Ultimately I have very few "comebacks" at all. Which benefits us all. Installation problems are sometimes the culprit but honestly everyone seems to do a decent job at DIY. (do it yourself). So here is some basic information that everyone should know. I may post the "do's and don'ts" information I give out to people, at a later time.
NOTE: You can scroll down below the prices to view answers I gave on an engineering site that received high marks from other engineers for my answers. They may be answers to questions you have as well.Also you can click on the pictures to enlarge them.
Contact: If you have questions you can e-mail me at: tcduster72@yahoo.com
Understanding basic limitations:
Often with HD units or performance units people often don't know the difference between (simi) abuse and just utilizing the extra strength and performance upgrades to hopefully enjoy the gains of a well built unit. Hard parts still can break and metal fatigue haunts any good rebuild. Heavy torque is hard on input shafts, just to name a few. Specially when connected to light aluminum drums. SO:
1. If you get stuck in mud or sand DO NOT rock the vehicle by slamming from drive to rev
erse. This will obliterate your low and reverse sprag assembly and or case in most units. You have to break and "swing" the vehicle forward and backward allowing for solid engagement of the transmission. It will work. But know when you’re just STUCK and no amount of gear slamming is going to get you out.2. Know your weight limit! Ratings only mean so much, use common sense! That works more often than not, however I'm often surprised. I've built many units for horseman and yes a transmission can haul more than we assume but just not for long. Keep in mind percentage of grade increases load weight substantially.
3. Watch heat to the transmission. Coolers are a huge benefit to consistancy and longevity. It's not just a sales pitch, it's a fact. The better the cooling efficiencies the
better all around. In some small cases you can over cool not allowing oil to get to operating temperature. Full synthetics are always the better route, particularly for heat. Also wrapping the exhausts with performance header wrap will cut down on the radiating heat being conducted by the transmissions aluminum housing, thus cutting heat absorption considerably! Chevy's and GMC and some Fords were bad about running the exhaust underneath the transmission bell housing or right by the oil pan.4. Yes big tires and tall gears are hard on automatics in general. It's rotational mass and leverage (Torsional load) that puts more stress on any automatic. Again don't expect a unit to last a hundred thousand miles if you have heavy loads on it. The idea for HD and HP units is to get more work and often more fun out of it for a longer period of time that you would not normally get from a stock unit.
NOTE TO MY USUAL UPGRADES: All units priced below will have some upgrades when applicable as well as the clutchs and shift kit. Other upgrades mentioned available are: Sun Shell/Sun gear modifications, pump upgrades (hardened rings, 13 vane pumps if not already, larger boost valve again dependant on unit type), bolt on sprags (mopar 3 speed), additional upgrades like Machined pistons for added clutch(s), machined drum(s) for weight or quick fluid release. There are many planetary upgrades available for most all units (5 and 6 pinion planetary gears) ask me about them. Alto Reds, Kolene steels, or Borg Warner Blue Plates. Many after market valves for the valve bodies and many, many other components that make the units much stronger like different alloy input shafts for many different units. Better built converters are a USUAL MUST DEPENDING ON VEHICLES INTENDED USE.
Pricing and Cores: Prices quoted come with a stock converter and without a core charge. If you bring us a unit to be rebuilt you will not be charged a core charge. Good build able units are recognized as without sever damage to hard parts or only having minor broken hard part damage. If you do not have a core, a core charge will add from $100 to $300 on up depending on unit.
Note to stock rebuilds: I don't build any of these "stock" per say! It's ridiculous to do so in this day and age. So all units get a valve body reprogramming kit and minor upgrades (See the above) (sometimes pump, sprags, bushing etc) Prices reflect no severe hard part damage Hard part damage is extra i.e.: pumps, planets, center supports, case etc. If the damage exceeds what it would cost for a new unit or reasonable cost to rebuild, I will suggest other options. Hard parts will be added to the base price, which is usually minimal anyway. However PERFORMANCE unit prices may not carry the extra hard part damage costs. It will be determined on a per case basis.
What are Kolene Steels: Kolene® is a salt bath nitriding process. In generic terms, it is a thermochemical diffusion process, whereby ferrous parts are processed in molten salt with a specific nitrogen potential. In plain English, it provides a surface treatment that enhances wear and fatigue resistance from 200% to 500%. (you can read the detailed process by scrolling down the page toward the end)
We Offer Installment Payment Plan if Needed!
TH350 Or TH400 Chevy BOP Stock only* $650.00 (lock up converters $75 extra) (The converters for these old school units are now on the critical list meaning they are becoming very difficult to find and are basically getting extinct, so to speak. The prices are going up and you MUST have a core or a heavy core charge will be added to the price!) All 400's receive Duel Feed set up.
Street Strip mild shift $785.00
S/s w HD shift stage ll $875.00 to $925 Manual Shift $975.00
S/s w Altos or BW clutches, Kolene steels HD shift kit $975.00-$1,100.00 (dependent on further upgrades like manual valve body, Reverse pattern shift)
700R4 (early Chevy/GMC)
Mostly stock only basic efficiency improvements ……….$900.00 *
(Typical upgrades will include 3/4 added clutchs (optional commercial clutch pack available), case saver, updates to sun shell/sun gear, 3/4 sprag and oiling updates).
Street Strip mild shift …………………………………...$990.00
S/s HD shift kit, w/reds and Kolene, 5 pinion planets
fwd and rear..... …………………………………………$1,350
Further Upgrades from here, prices may vary between $1,400 to $2,000, to include larger boost valve, HD Transgo SK, Blue Plates, Reverse Drum upgrades planets and more.
4L60E (Chevy, GMC)Basic stock mild upgrades $950.00 good builder no hard part damage. (4L65E will start at $1,000) (Typical upgrades will include 3/4 added clutches typical 9 clutch upgrade, case saver, Hardened Sun Shell, 3/4 sprag oiling updates, Transgo Shift Kit, 2/4 Servo modification. This is the typical build.
4L60E Street Strip mild shift..... $900.00 (includes better clutches and upgraded valve body reprogramming kit, wide band, Corvett servo)
S/s HD shift stage ll w/ red or BW, Kolene , and 5 pinion planet up grade, HD 3/4
These upgrade costs will vary from $1,000 to .......$1,600.00
W/electronic new add-$350
W/ both 5 pinion planetary and input 3/4 drum upgrades add-$300 to 500
Art Carr One piece input shaft upgrade $650Stage 2 or 3 shift kit add $250 to 350
4L80E Mild to larger upgrades run $950-$1,800 Price can vary depending on how bad Overdrive/underdrive section gets wiped out. All 4l80E's get duel feed upgrade. Price includes Gasoline Converter add $200 for Diesel Converters.
TF727-904 or Ford C4-C6
Mostly Stock $650.00 (Converter cost may also vary price based on lock-up primarily) converters can be up to 200.00 just for a stocker.
Street/Strip HD Shift kit.......... $800.00
S/s w/Reds & Kolene.............. $950.00
Bolt on sprags available at...... $380.00 (727/904)
6 pinion planets add...............$380 to $450
Deeper drums or machine work add...... $150 to $400
Ford E4OD or 4R100 Diesel or gasoline engine: Prices will vary due to many upgrades available and year. These transmissions, despite the earlier years, are a very decent transmission and can be made to handle bigger loads and handle much more horse power and torque.
Expect to pay between $950 to $1,800+ depending on the upgrades.
A518 and A500 (46,7, 8RE) Dodge Diesel or Gasoline engine. These too are a good transmission despite earlier year overdrive issues. These are the quite hardy 727 based transmissions with overdrive built behind. We add the extra OD oiling modifications and the customer can add updated planet in the forward (6 pinion) as well as the rear and OD. Better Clutches and steels as always increase their pulling power. Transgo Shift kits are always utilized in the rebuilding of this unit (all our units in fact).
Expect to pay between $950.00 and $1,600 minimally, all depending on upgrades.
GM 4L80E
Also a Chevy and GM heavily utilized transmission. These are a great transmission and can handle decent loads. The main fixes are for the forward and direct drum upgrades. Also TCC and Line valve/pressure problems common to the 4L80E. Refer to above in 4L60E.
The basic upgrade with gasoline converter starts at $980.00 and additional upgrades can run up to $2,200. Core cost on these is $300.
Allison 1000, 2000, 3,000 (5 or 6 speed)
These more common in the Chevy Dura-max are also one hardy transmission. There are good updates to be installed (we always utilize the Sonnex C1 line pressure increase valve) and the Transgo Shift kit installed on all these units. The customer can up grade to Power Packs in C1-4 for extra strength in all gears. Add a two or three clutch converter for ultimate strength. (these available from aftermarket suppliers just ask us)
Expect to pay between $1,800 to $4,800 depending on upgrades.
VIDOE'S
You can scroll down past the videos for more information on transmissions related to high performance or heavy duty parts and applications. Lots more information. These videos are just a handful we do on auto related. I have almost 100 videos on Vimeo.
This is important video I have on Vimeo:
Damaging pump on install, what not to do.
These are on Youtube:
Trans-Coolers...
Hell yes! This isn't an up-sell it's a necessity with all performance or HD utilized units. The two major causes of transmission failer is HEAT and loss of fluid. Always budget a trans cooler in any upgrades or even adding extra use to your vehicle. I can't preach enough about them or any other transmission tech. This primarily for those of us living in this part of the country especially.
Warranties are available.
FURTHER INFORMATION:
The following about oil changes and such is from an engineering site I get on every once in a while. It's a common question a
nd I listed the mans question in the beginning and then you can read my reply. They score how well the answer is so it's kind of fun to get "thumbs up" and the "kudos" from other engineers.Question:
1998 Dodge Cummins Diesel - Automatic Transmission Problems
01/29/2009 6:00 AM
We have a 1998 Dodge Cummins Diesel with an automatic transmission and it has 212,000 miles on it. The transmission fluid hasn't been changed in about the last 100,000 miles. Our transmission shop told us not to change it, since we had forgotten to do that at about 130,000 miles. He said putting new fluid in there would cause the transmission to fail. It is now starting to have a little trouble and I am wondering if we should just go ahead and change it. Is the new fluid thinner and would cause leaks? I don't understand why keeping bad fluid in a transmission is better. I want to do the right thing and avoid a total failure if possible.
Thanks
My answer:
Having built, rebuilt and designed my own transmissions for over 20 years, I was glad to hear a transmission shop actually tell you not to change your oil. Yea for them. Honesty, what a concept. When I started I was rebuilding units for used car dealerships, they were always looking for the cheap rout out, needless to say I learned a lot about what to do and not.
The detergents in the new oil will break down all the coagulated materials at this point, for simplicity sake, kinda holding things together primarily in the clutches. Seals are probably getting hard at this point as well. Excessive heat will be primarily the culprit for that. The fact you have that many miles on a A518 is pretty amazing. The OD planetary systems usually fail specially for that year. So you've done well. Not changing the oil helps that situation as the thinner oil can actually penetrate the rear planetary small oiling orifice in the back that is required to be drilled out upon a rebuild and going to 90degree pitch gears for that planetary. We also chamfer the edge of the planetary to help with oil penetrating the frictional areas.
DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OIL... the regular way. This is what we do for classic cars powered by old cast iron power glides, Slim Jim's etc., or cars with extreme mileage where the units are still working or showing loss of pressure due to usually clutch material flaking off in the pan and plugging the filter. We would drain the old oil save it, change the filter and clean out the pan, and pour back the old oil through a filter thus catching the larger elements. Due to the oil being thin and old, we would then ad one to two quarts of NON-detergent motor oil. Yes motor oil. Usually a 10-40w. This brings up the viscosity and
density under normal operating condition. Bring up your oil to level checking the LOW side of the stick. This while the engine is running and in Neutral or Park.Again I have been doing that for over 20 years with great success. If the transmission is starting to failing that wont help much and this method is usually to help it along or prolong till it does. However I've gotten some amazing mileage out that method sometimes. Specially in the older / high mileage transmissions. When Jiffy lube started promoting their Trans Flush, they sent my shops lots of business for rebuilds on higher mileage cars.
If your hard parts, planetaries, reaction carrier, Sprag assemblies etc are in good shape, this will help until the seals fail or other "soft parts". Always use an external trans cooler if you live in a hot climate area. The non-detergent motor oil will help bring up the lubrication conditions up a bit to help with what is existing.
I would also suggest not waiting till hard part damage occurs and get it rebuilt at your earliest convenience!
Here's another question:
Downshifting an Automatic Transmission
05/26/2009 8:41 AM
I have looked at a lot of comments on various blogs about the impact of downshifting an automatic transmission to decelerate the car or for long inclines. The responses have been mixed, but none of the responses have been from people who understand what the transmissions are designed to handle. Is there anyone with transmission design experience that can answer the question, does downshifting an automatic transmission damage it?
My answer:
"does downshifting an automatic transmission damage it?"
Rarely. Most valve body circuitry, which is primarily hydraulic with some electronic controls, will compensate for pressure changes in regards to pump out put (usually 180psi +- total) in relation to the selected gear (figuring manually down shifting for engine braking) in order to maintain apply pressure to the clutches regardless of vehicle speed. This in relation to engine RPM in which the unit is designed to regulate automatically. The transmission response is first engine RPM related to the coupled converter to pump.
There are certain engine rpm or vehicle speeds that manually downshifting in order to help slow the vehicle down will not happen. This is designed and controlled by the Valve body circuitry (or incorporating electronics) to not over rev the engine. You'll notice drive 75mph and drop it into 1st or 2nd, nothing will happen. For people who made special request, primarily horse owners, those pulling fifth wheels or heavy equipment with larger 3/4 and 1 ton vehicles, or racing applications, we would re-calibrate the valve body by overriding the circuits related to the governor, apply servos, and or PR valve systems in order to get a full manual operational downshift. This came without warranty of course due to some not understanding the danger of over revving and the harsh response of load force on the sprags (one way rollers) usually connected to the center support, sun shell on drum connecting surface, thrust loads or any other place where there is tolerances that can start creating excessive play.
Still (in unmodified vehicles) you'll notice the engine reaches close to red line upon downshifting where it will allow this lower gear engagement to occur at a higher vehicle speed or engine RPM. Amazingly however as the vehicle slows or if you continue a long distance at a steep grade the only real concern is engine temperature. Transmission fluid temperatures are usually raised mainly through conduction (in this case more so) as apposed the the frictional characteristics of it's operations. Thus most find that using the transmission to engine brake is used as an assist for lighter application of wheel braking. Thus providing for a "spreading out" of the work force needed to slow the vehicle down where the complications of only wheel braking is understood here.
It gets intricate to describe the systems operations as it relates to it's valve body controls, electronic controls (as more in modern vehicles. I still work a lot with older units as they are easier to modify for specific applications.) recognizing many variables through changing pressures and rotational output shaft speeds that help maintain selected gearing or automatically to help control engine rpm.
"...about the impact of downshifting an automatic transmission to decelerate the car or for long inclines."
Mostly minimal. Again different situations may result in more harm or less depending on grade, total inertial mass transferred, temperatures, and modifications made to the transmission. In unmodified transmissions heat would be the main concern and primarily the engine.
I'll pitch a couple of thoughts. If you tow anything often, please install an external cooler dependant of the radiator. Even with electronic regulated transmissions there are many aftermarket valve body reprogramming kits that will help extend the life of a transmission especially if the work force is increased on a unit. The best time is when the unit is being re-built. There are many internal modifications that will also help in providing better holding power in the clutch drums, apply servo modifications, piston springs, quicker pressure release upon apply, and the list goes on.
We've had companies bring us brand new off the floor trucks to make the modifications as the expense out weighed the failure of a stock transmission under there constant heavy use. Allison makes a great HD unit but unfortunately, to my currant understanding they are used only in GM and Chevy trucks. Rumors have not been clarified for future use in Ford or Dodge.
1994 Ford F-350 Diesel - Transmission Problems
07/06/2009 10:22 PM
I have a 1994 F-350 4X4 7.3 IDI Diesel I have a little over 350,000 miles on it and have replaced and or rebuilt some 5 Transmissions to date no matter what we do to them as far as an up grade and after market products it doesen't seem to help get any better of a Trans then what we had before. From TransCommand to over sized oil trans coolers to drilling out the oil passage ways within the transmission it's self. We still burn them up at from 30,000 to 50,000 miles and it is not even hard miles we are talking, this truck has been babbied. I am not ready to drop some $60 grand or close to for another new truck. Is there any thing out their that I can do to stop this transmission burn up problem. I'll even go as far as putting in a manuel transmission in if need be. Thanks in addvance for all the help DM Pelletier
My answer:
Hi Davnbec, I've been rebuilding these pain in the asses since they were released by Ford. I don't do as many now but still enjoy, yes enjoy, building them to keep up the skill and now rebuild them for some of my contractor friends who do not baby them, like at all!
Yes there are absolutely many things that can be done internally that will provide some longevity. Yes some electronic "interceptors" as we called them are good, however I personally haven't experienced any of recent, especially for the price, that work as well as one that was offered from 96 to 99. Unfortunately I haven't seen any on the market since. Most now only work just "ok" for TCC. But you can only go so far with that anyway.
The first decent up grade is the Art Carr VB reprogramming kit and Trans-go make a decent one as well. (I might ad, they REALLY must be installed correctly and their kit includes modifications to internal parts to truly get the desired effects and the overall efficiency increase they were designed for.) They are designed for over all operating efficiency and fixing the haunting problems related to the torque converter lockup, or TCC. There are pump up grades and I have a couple of my own "tricks" that I utilize that help with particular components. Chamfering area of the planets and on the sun gear are just two of 7 manual upgrades I do for better oiling and or to address strength issues. Line pressure drops are common but due to a number of VB problems, oil density issues, heat of course, tolerance problems in the drum bushings, clutch pack set ups, (the center support in the old days was a bushing type that went out constantly, then they when to what is now a bearing type, it still fails and is always typical to one of the main causes of this transmissions failure) not to mention the case can warp. They used and still do sell an after market VB case-to-plate gasket that's .20 thick just to try and take up the slack. That's after the recommended, taking a hand honing stone to the surface of the case VB channeling. Clutch pack set up is critical in the fwd and intermediate drum along with utilizing of Kolene steels and Alto Reds or Borg Warner performance clutches. There are some snap ring up grades as well as torrington bearing replacements. Sonnx makes some great VB valves that hold up to replace where the bores ware out in the aluminum valve body bores which create major pressure losses. The transmission fails due to pressure losses that can occur in many areas, including the inevitable slow leaks from areas like primarily the shifter lever seal. They did well with the pan gasket they utilize. I can go on and on.
Transtar and Sonnax are just two companies I use for hard parts related to drums, planets and upgraded components that should be replaced to make those units hold up to the torque of the diesels and the load demands we put on them. Most ALL of my past customers would over load these trucks then proceed to climb up grades doubling or tripling load weight! (we have steep mountains here) Hmm, why do they not last? Because the cases are so long anytime a vibration is created due to drive line twisting, or bad U-joints, it will cause problems typically faster than most other AT's.
Utilizing good oil and maintaining proper heating or cooling to the oil is critical. For us in the southwest heat is our enemy during the summer. So, to some small degree, yes electronics can be a problem but referencing ATRA's sight (you have to be a member) and national failier accounting history of this unit, it's primarily been internal component failier. Some due to abuse or mis-use but primarily internal component failier due to internal pressure losses. Hope that gave you a little more insight to this jewl of a transmission. I will say with all the right up grades it's a pretty hardy transmission. What I see these guy's haul for well over a hundred thousand miles before a rebuild amazes me.
KOLENE STEEL PROCESSING:
The Kolene QPQ(SM) Process is an adjunct to Kolene Corporation's salt bath ferritic nitrocarburizing (SBN(TM)) treatment called Nu-Tride(R), whereby a mechanical polish and post salt bath oxidative treatment are provided to the nitrocarburized surface. This unique combination of salt bath treatments with intermediate surface finishing, produces a significant increase in corrosion protection while maintaining all the engineering properties initially developed through the SBN process. Additionally, the Kolene QPQ Process provides a cosmetically appealing black surface on the treated component.
Process
The term Kolene "QPQ" is based on a sequence of process events that occur directly following the nitrocarburizing cycle. Referring to the time-temperature profile in Fig. 1, the development of the Kolene QPQ Process may be followed. It begins with the treating cycle of the nitrocarburizing segment, i.e. pre-heat, Nu-Tride salt, Kolene KQ-5OO salt bath quench (SBQ), which produces a layer of epsilon iron nitride, Fig. 2.
The next step is a mechanical polish of the nitride layer, thus restoring the original surface finish. This may be accomplished by vibratory polishing, lapping, centerless polishing, or by other similar means. Finally, to optimize the corrosion resistance, the component is then reimmersed in the Kolene KQ5OO salt quench bath for 20-30 minutes, rinsed and oil dipped. The resulting sequence of quench-polish-quench operations is thus termed the Kolene QPQ Process and may be expressed generically as SBN/SBQ/polish/SBQ.
The change in surface chemistry of the workpiece resulting from the Kolene QPQ treatment may be determined by tracking the nitrogen, carbon, and oxygen pick-up through use of Auger analysis. Results, shown in Fig. 3, denote the levels of nitrogen and carbon as a consequence of the nitrocarburizing bath (SBN), and the extent of the oxygen pick-up occurring from the reimmersion in the final oxidative bath (SBQ). The oxygen is present in the form of iron oxide, Fe3O4, 3 to 4 microns thick. It is this layer of iron oxide that produces an improved corrosion resistance for non-stainless steels and provides a lustrous dark finish
